Nov 28, 2017
Israel: the Land of Hutzpah and Hospitality
Where to begin?
When you land in Israel, the cosmopolitan diversity, vibrant foodie scene, and stunning beaches can almost make you forget the thousands of years of history right under your own two feet. Almost.
Tel Aviv is a melting pot of cuisines filled with gorgeous people everywhere you look, all living in a Mediterranean paradise. Jerusalem, by comparison, wraps the richness of all religions into one mecca that inspires a sense of awe in even the most non-believers. The country is an oasis, brimming with too-good-to-be-true sites, snapworthy art, and food so good you’ll never look at Mediterranean food in the US the same way.
Highlights:
- Friday Shabbat dinner: Every week without fail, Israelis get together with friends and/or family for a traditional dinner. Nothing fancy — just good, simple food, an abundance of wine, and great company. And when it’s on a rooftop of the chef’s house in cool 72 degree weather, there is absolutely no more perfect gathering.
- Machane Yehuda market, Jerusalem: It’s a new world in this marketplace, with orthodox Jews, Muslims, and every religious group all finding common humanity over food.
- Dead Sea: Get a high in the lowest place on earth. I thought I was going to be the one person on the planet who couldn’t manage to float on the Dead Sea. But with that much salt concentration, I promise everyone can float in the water ;)
- Jaffa: Walk around the coolest “old” neighborhood in Tel Aviv. Saunter across multiple cobblestone blocks to see the most breathtaking views of the city, and even get offered a free lunch inside an artist’s studio.
Tel Aviv
Shabbat Dinner with chef Har-el Zakaim
Har-el owned the acclaimed restaurant, Zakaim, named for his family, before selling it to focus on his true passion — the food. Our hosts booked the dinner through EatWith.com, which is like their Feastly. Har-el cooked the tastiest vegan meal I have ever had, with bright vegetables, legumes and homemade braided challah bread (hollaaa). We broke bread, and rough pieces were tossed to each person across the giant round table (it’s a big no-no to cut the bread and pass it from person to person.) The chef even built the stunning round wooden table from refurbished wood with his bare hands. This way he could feed friends and family outdoors on his rooftop under the stars.
The flavors from the food already had us bursting with energy, but Har-el made sure we also had entertainment for the night. He placed a baked potato atop parchment paper for each person, then generously ladled spices and a cashew-cream sauce. On the potato went another piece of parchment paper.
To go from baked to mashed, my friend Sam was tasked with smashing the potato with a lead weight — all while standing on top of the table. Apparently Sam was not doing an efficient enough job and needed my assistance. Manners went out the window as I kicked off my shoes and stomped on each potato with my bare foot. When in Israel, I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
With his hospitality and incredible food, Har-el encapsulated everything I loved about Israel in one human body. He was cooky, he was sexy, he was genuine. Though English wasn’t his native tongue, he became a poet when he talked about each dish. With bare feet and partially buttoned dress shirt, he oozed a relaxed sensuality that made everyone in our group instantly fall in love with him. And he had enough love to feed to all 16 of us.
Jaffa
This old quarter of Tel Aviv feels like the Brooklyn of New York, or the Oakland of the Bay Area — minus the pretentious hipster feel. Everywhere you turn, warmth and charm radiate from a hidden art studio or cozy restaurants, which boast stunning views of the Port. You can wander here for hours soaking everything in. Get lost and just follow signs to random art studios; life always leads you on the right path that way.
After descending zigzagging stairways, I stumbled onto Ilan Adar’s art studio just as he was sitting down to lunch. He told me to pull up a chair and dine with him. If I hadn’t just had an enormous brunch overlooking the ocean, I absolutely would have accepted his offer. (I was still slightly taken aback by this generous offer, but after two weeks, I shouldn’t have been surprised by his Israeli hospitality.) Instead I meandered around his incredible studio marveling at his prolific portfolio that contained pieces of all mediums. For a split second, I craved the life of an artist.. But then I snapped out of my daydream and made my way back up to reality.
I continued climbing to the highest point in Jaffa and discovered the Wishing Bridge of Jaffa, with embossed carvings of each of the zodiac signs. Legend says to make a wish while touching your zodiac sign for it to come true (the germophobe in me reluctantly laid a pinkie). While looking out onto the Tel Aviv skyline and shoreline, it was hard to imagine needing to wish for anything more than I already had :)
Florentin neighborhood
After discovering the art in Jaffa, make your way to the Florentin neighborhood, where there’s street art galore. Eye-popping graffiti art decorates nearly all the nondescript buildings. Numerous lighting stores and galleries are sprinkled along the streets including the “Tiny gallery” and also a gallery where all the pieces are under $1000.
Neve Tzedek
Continue on to the fashionable Neve Tzedek neighborhood that is a mix of upscale architecture and picturesque quaintness. Wind your way through the many small streets to stumble upon the Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre, which is at the intersection of a handful of museums and theatres.
Port Sa’id restaurant/bar: This is one of the coolest open air bars in Tel Aviv. Our colleague and friend Noam had an in, so we got to sit at the most in-demand VIP table… right in front of the DJ booth. And like all people in Israeli, this DJ had a story. Legend had it he was detained in prison while performing in another country, and only recently escaped back to Israel (you can’t make this stuff up.)
The food was to die-for — make sure to order the french toast dessert. After dessert, Israelis generously finish every meal with a “chaser.” This sounds lovely and refreshing, but it turns out to be a shot of “arac”, the Turkish word for ouzo aka the not-so-delicious licorice liqueur whose sweetness does not mask the burn as it goes down.
Cuckoo’s Nest (bar/restaurant/art gallery): How can one place pack in so much cool? The ground floor combines a bar plus restaurant that’s also an antique shop with a dance floor. On the second floor of the Cuckoo’s Nest is an art gallery that had an exhibit with pretty much everything I could ever want: rainbow paint and ballerina tutus.
The Old Man and the Sea: This restaurants serves the classic mezze, a slew of delicious veggie appetizers of cauliflower, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant, falafel, hummus, tahini and pita… all before the main course even comes. And watch before your eyes as the servers clear dozens of your plates in one swoop by stacking them in a circular flower arrangement. I’m not sure where the Hemingway reference comes into play, but who cares when the food is so good?
Yafo Tel-Aviv: This was perhaps the best restaurant I ate at in Tel Aviv. Disclaimer: it was our first meal in Israel, and I could not believe my taste buds. If I could subsist exclusively on their tahini and pita bread, I’d die a happy woman. The tahini had a consistency and richness unlike anything I’ve tasted in the States, and the pita bread was baked and seasoned for a perfect crust that hugged a pillow-y inside. Get the rack of lamb, and sit at the bar for a delicious cocktail shaken and served by ridiculously good-looking staff.
Masada + Dead Sea Day Trip
Dead Sea
A truly out-of-body buoyancy — this is what we all imagine floating should actually be like in perfectly tempered water. The only thing you have to worry about is any teeny open wounds because, wow, that saltwater stings. Get just one drop in your eye, and you’re crying for a few good minutes. Check out the Isrotel Hotel if you want to pamper yourself silly. They sell exfoliating, vitamin-rich mud that you can lather all over your body. Let it dry and start cracking before you wash it off into the sea, along with all your worries and your strife (Disney’s Bare Necessities reference, anyone?)
Masada
This impressive fortress is in the middle of the Judean Desert that was built around 30 B.C. I can safely say it is the oldest place I’ve ever been to. The Masada sits atop a massive plateau, and served as a protected civilization under King Herod. To get to the top, most choose to do the 45–60 minute hike as a sort of pilgrimage. In theory, that sounded empowering and delightful. But the cable car ride with an incredible view of the Dead Sea won out in the scorched heat. According to scholars, the Roman Empire charged the fortress in the Siege of Masada, and rather than allow the takeover, 960 Jewish people chose to commit suicide. Heavy stuff, but worth the ancient history lesson.
BRUNCH:
Delicatessen: This was my favorite brunch in Tel Aviv. Inside Delicatessen is a hybrid of a bountiful farmer’s market and Restoration Hardware/ Anthropologie home section. Everything is fantastic, including the Croque Madame, the Yemenite pancakes (more like a biscuit), and you can’t go wrong with the Shakshuka.
Sarona Market: This is like the Ferry Building in San Francisco on steroids. There were 4x as many stalls with an incredible variety of fresh foods, bars and desserts in a more upscale ambiance. Go with a group so you can sample a variety of foods.
Carmel Market: This market is Sarona’s less wealthy cousin, but has the same diverse selection of food, fresh juices, and knick knacks. I never thought I was an early bird, but Tel Aviv starts late. I got here at 9:30am, and only about half the stalls were ready to take my money, especially one aggressive elderly woman. My gaze lingered a little too long on her various baked goods, and she came up to me, tugging on my arm to purchase bread. To prove how fresh the bread was, she grabbed a pita round and gently slapped it on my arm. I was slightly horrified that some other person would have to purchase food that contained some of my arm essence, so I gave her some shekels for the bread. I bought an additional cupful of pomegranate seeds (which are plentiful everywhere in Tel Aviv) for a light breakfast.
Cafe Puaa: Thinks of a retro 60s American diner, but Israeli. It has the old-timey, homey feel with super friendly staff, whom you feel like you’ve known for years. And the food is far superior.
Benedict Restaurant: Rothschild Blvd., a more vibrant Sand Hill Road, houses not just start-ups but a concentration of some of the best restaurants and bars in the city. Dine at Benedict for, what else, their delicious benedicts. (I ordered the lamb bacon benedict with a side of fresh orange & carrot juice.)
Dinner:
Cafe Europa: phenomenal food, also on Rothschild Blvd.
Magazzino: delicious Italian food (yes, they do all food well, not just Israeli). I also got my first Alexander beer, which is their local beer.
Claro: fantastic food right near the heart of Sarona Market (the brunch is supposed to be fantastic as well). Visit the whiskey cellar across the courtyard too. The bartender has to climb a ladder a la Belle from Beauty and the Beast and slide the length of the bar just to fetch the whiskey you ordered.
Miznon: a more casual place to get delicious falafel-stuffed pita and a whole head of roasted cauliflower. Crowded and loud, the restaurant’s food is magnifique
Kalamata: a small, intimate restaurant in Old Jaffa with a great view of the Port
Manta Ray: the restaurant has a breathtaking sea view with delicate fish dishes
Bars:
Imperial Bar: Named one of the Top 50 bars in the world, the Imperial Bar is testament to Israelis’ love for irony. It’s located in one of the dumpiest hotels in the city, but the cocktails pack the oddest combinations of ingredients to create the most delectable concoctions. One of my drinks had actual flecks of gold dust, while the other had a perfectly sprinkled silhouette of a gun floating on eggwhite foam and beet-Cajun syrup.
Bellhop: This bar is nestled in the back of a darkly lit old-fashioned hotel, hence the name. Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, the ambiance feels rich and velvety-y with deep mahogany and red hues. Order an assortment of drinks that come with fun accoutrements, including a smoking pine cone, fluffy cotton candy, a polaroid picture, and even an opened condom.
Other activities
Nahalat Binyamin Arts & Crafts Market: If you’re looking for cheap chotskies, don’t head here. But if you’re looking for high-quality jewelry and crafts, this is definitely the street to do so. All the artists need an accreditation, so you can be sure every shekel cent is well spent on children’s toys, leather bags or anything else you can think of.
The Beaches: Walk almost the entirety of the shoreline in two hours. You can get sucked into the quick pace of people zooming by on their electric bikes, or let time stand still watching the surfers ride the waves. Walk along the shore during the night when it’s a balmy 70 degrees, and people-watch as fit Israelis workout in the outdoor gyms dotted along the beach. Definitely a feast for the eyes B)
HAIFA
Google has another office in Haifa, which was the largely the reason we visited this city, 45 min north of Tel Aviv. Otherwise, I wouldn’t recommend making a stop there. But if you do go, along the way is the beautiful Baha’i gardens which is definitely worth a stop. This is what I imagine the Hanging gardens of Babylon looked like in its heyday with opulent flora and plants. The best falafel in the world (yes, the world) is at HaZkenim falafel.
JERUSALEM
Jerusalem has a markedly different feel than Tel Aviv, as if you were transported hundreds of years back in time.
Machne Yehuda market, 5 stars: The must-visit market overwhelmed all five senses: you can observe people of all faiths, listen to the haggling in Hebrew and Arabic, and smell and taste delicious food from all over the world: empanadas, an Israeli pie pastry dish, ice cream sandwiches, and of course… arac.
Old City: Visit one of the holiest places in the world and a reverence overcomes you. With all the turbulence that can happen with religious conflict, it was beautiful to see the four quarters peacefully adjacent to each other: Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenian. Inside the Old City was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected.
I’m not religious, but watching the throngs of people kissing and caressing the tomb while in tears was truly a moving sight. If religion isn’t quite your thing, walk through the narrow alleys with shops and stalls with all sorts of colorful clothing, fancy furniture, and fragrant spices and foods.
Wailing Wall, part of Western Wall: After entering through security scanners, you enter one of the holiest sites in the world. The Wailing symbolizes the Jewish practice of mourning the destruction of part of the Temple and praying for the rebuilding, which is divided by men and women. Scattered in each section are bibles and pen and paper for you to write your wishes to God and stick them in the crevices of the wall.
Places to see the next time I go:
Holocaust Museum and Temple Mount, the Muslim religious site
As a congrats for reading the entire post, check out videos of Conan O’Brien’s visit to Israel (on the beaches and at Waze HQ). It’s 10x funnier than anything I could ever write. Maybe, just maybe, I have to go back to review Israel with the same humor as Conan ;)
